Do you know about Biryani, an Indian dish? While India is famous for curry, if you ever get tired of it, I highly recommend Biryani. This article introduces the Biryani I actually ate during my trips to India and Nepal from February to March 2024.
What is Biryani?
Biryani is a spiced, layered rice dish eaten in India and neighboring countries. There are unique Biryani variations in different regions, with some theories suggesting there are as many as 30 types.
My Biryani Debut in Malaysia’s Little India
Malaysian Biryani Ayam
My first experience with Biryani was in July 2023, during my visit to Little India in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Malaysian Biryani is served like the Malay dish Nasi Campur, with gravy-rich ingredients poured over the layered rice. The “Biryani Ayam,” which is chicken Biryani, was a feast with large pieces of chicken. The price was about 550 JPY, which was a bit higher compared to other dishes. But it was so delicious I wanted to eat it again. This first experience in Malaysia made me look forward to the day I would eat it in its authentic form in India.
Biryani in Delhi, India
My first destination in India was the Old Delhi area of Delhi. Here, I tried Biryani from a street stall. Indian Biryani is served scooped from a distinctive large pot onto a plate. The rice grains are larger and more separated than Indian rice used for curry. I ordered Chicken Biryani, but the only slight disappointment was the small pieces of chicken.
The menu offered “FULL” and “HALF” portions. At this stall, a FULL portion was 200 rupees, and a HALF was 100 rupees (180 JPY). The photo shows a HALF portion. It seemed that HALF was meant for one person, and FULL might be for takeout. It was quite spicy; for a Japanese palate, it might be a bit hot. Since my usual meals ranged from 30 to 50 rupees, 100 rupees for one dish felt expensive. I ate the 100-rupee Biryani three times, usually when I needed to break a large banknote. After a while, I noticed that even small stalls sold Vegetable Biryani. I hadn’t noticed it before because the price was so cheap: 50 rupees for FULL and 30 rupees (54 JPY) for HALF. A HALF portion was just the right amount, so by the end of my stay in Delhi, I was eating it every other day.
Biryani in Mumbai
I also found a Biryani stall in Mumbai and tried it. Its appearance was quite different from what I had eaten before, but even with a lighter color, it was still well-spiced. However, the HALF portion shown in the photo cost 60 rupees. It was surprising that food prices were cheaper in Delhi, the capital. Still, Mumbai has fewer street stalls and mostly street-side shops, so prices are generally higher, making 60 rupees for a meal still on the cheaper side. In Delhi as well, they would lay paper on the plate before serving the rice. I wonder why that is?
Chicken Biryani in Kathmandu, Nepal
I also had Biryani in Kathmandu, Nepal, my next destination after India. There was a specialized Biryani shop on the outskirts of the Thamel area, where chicken Biryani cost 200 Nepalese Rupees (about 220 JPY). The chicken pieces were larger and more substantial than in India’s chicken Biryani. Like in India, it came with one whole boiled egg.
So, what do you think of the Biryani I actually ate? You can probably find it at Indian restaurants in Japan, but if you get the chance to travel abroad, I would be delighted if you tried the local Biryani!
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